Post by whichfinger on Jan 29, 2020 23:24:15 GMT
By Mr Pearl
Apr 10, 2009#1
The pink is from the factory. I would have left them on but the better half and my daughter said 'No Way', so the RR got a new handle real fast. The grips in the photo on the RR were finished this morning. I like the dirty blonde look better than the light wood. Making new grips for the Rough Rider is pretty painless, just needs some time, a few tools and desire. I've been a 'Tool Junky' for a long time so some of my methods and tools may not work for you, but there are always work a rounds.
You need:
Wood - 5/8s to 3/4 inch thick. Some type of hard wood that strikes your eye just right. I like a tight grain, closed pour like maple or walnut. If the grain is straight, it is easier to carve with knives. If you grab a piece of wood to use and it is near a knot, with fancy grain or a burl, use sand paper for the shaping.
Power Tools: A drill press is real handy for more than making grips. With some attachments you can make it into a wood planer, a power drum sander, or a light duty milling machine. Sometimes a moto tool with a sanding drum is handy for rough shaping or if you want something with a finger groove or thumb rest. I have a 1 inch belt with a 5 inch disk sander that works well for making saw dust real fast and getting real close to the line. If you have a band saw or other power tool that can make the concave, convex curve cuts, life is easier.
Hand Tools: Carving knives - if your good with them and got the touch- go for it. You already got it made. Sand paper - 50 or 60 grit for rough hand shaping. I use the resin cloth back stuff. You can buy a belt for a belt sander and cut it to fit the need. It lasts a lot longer than the paper backed stuff. 80 grit & finer I use the paper back stuff for finish sanding. Hand Saws- If you don't have the power saws, cross cut, ripping or coping saw will do just fine at a little slower pace. Hand Drill - if you don't have or want to get a drill press you will need a hand drill and some bits.
Other - I have a mini metal lathe and mill drill drill to make the nut & ferrel for the grip screw along with the tap & die for a 4/40 screw, but there are work a rounds for this too. Wood rasp or course file for shaping and or making mandrels to glue sandpaper too.
I have some walnut in the shop. Nothing fancy, but I'll try to photo document my process on another set so you can see how I do it.
Be safe, shoot straight; Mr. Pearl
This is the blank I'll use for set 3. It is 3/4 inch thick and from a walnut tree Dad & I cut down about 30 years ago. It is a dense piece near a knot and real hard. I've removed the most of the saw cut marks by sanding the sides over a couple sheets of sandpaper that were glued to a piece of plywood. I did a quick trace for marks & size using the existing grips. This side will end up being the back side.
After a quick trip to the band saw one side is ready to have the angle sanded on a disk sander. Notice I've cut outside the lines. The grip placement will be set with the angle and notch or rabbit cuts. Once the cuts are done and these 3 edges fit just right, I can mark the blind hole and then drill it.
Apr 10, 2009#1
The pink is from the factory. I would have left them on but the better half and my daughter said 'No Way', so the RR got a new handle real fast. The grips in the photo on the RR were finished this morning. I like the dirty blonde look better than the light wood. Making new grips for the Rough Rider is pretty painless, just needs some time, a few tools and desire. I've been a 'Tool Junky' for a long time so some of my methods and tools may not work for you, but there are always work a rounds.
You need:
Wood - 5/8s to 3/4 inch thick. Some type of hard wood that strikes your eye just right. I like a tight grain, closed pour like maple or walnut. If the grain is straight, it is easier to carve with knives. If you grab a piece of wood to use and it is near a knot, with fancy grain or a burl, use sand paper for the shaping.
Power Tools: A drill press is real handy for more than making grips. With some attachments you can make it into a wood planer, a power drum sander, or a light duty milling machine. Sometimes a moto tool with a sanding drum is handy for rough shaping or if you want something with a finger groove or thumb rest. I have a 1 inch belt with a 5 inch disk sander that works well for making saw dust real fast and getting real close to the line. If you have a band saw or other power tool that can make the concave, convex curve cuts, life is easier.
Hand Tools: Carving knives - if your good with them and got the touch- go for it. You already got it made. Sand paper - 50 or 60 grit for rough hand shaping. I use the resin cloth back stuff. You can buy a belt for a belt sander and cut it to fit the need. It lasts a lot longer than the paper backed stuff. 80 grit & finer I use the paper back stuff for finish sanding. Hand Saws- If you don't have the power saws, cross cut, ripping or coping saw will do just fine at a little slower pace. Hand Drill - if you don't have or want to get a drill press you will need a hand drill and some bits.
Other - I have a mini metal lathe and mill drill drill to make the nut & ferrel for the grip screw along with the tap & die for a 4/40 screw, but there are work a rounds for this too. Wood rasp or course file for shaping and or making mandrels to glue sandpaper too.
I have some walnut in the shop. Nothing fancy, but I'll try to photo document my process on another set so you can see how I do it.
Be safe, shoot straight; Mr. Pearl
This is the blank I'll use for set 3. It is 3/4 inch thick and from a walnut tree Dad & I cut down about 30 years ago. It is a dense piece near a knot and real hard. I've removed the most of the saw cut marks by sanding the sides over a couple sheets of sandpaper that were glued to a piece of plywood. I did a quick trace for marks & size using the existing grips. This side will end up being the back side.
After a quick trip to the band saw one side is ready to have the angle sanded on a disk sander. Notice I've cut outside the lines. The grip placement will be set with the angle and notch or rabbit cuts. Once the cuts are done and these 3 edges fit just right, I can mark the blind hole and then drill it.
